We sailed for about 4 or 5 hours with a nice fast and comfortable broad reach.
Here's Capt. John at the helm.
Arrived just south of Marqueas in time for cocktails in the cockpit as we watched the sunset. Also got there in time for John to jump overboard and untangle our propeller from a crab pot. Those #%&!#!! crab pots are all over the place. It's next to impossible to keep from snagging one. Fortunately, we were sailing so it didn't do any damage to the engine. In fact, we didn't even realize that we were dragging the bouy and a big wooden crab pot until we cranked up the motor to prepare to anchor. When John felt the stress on the propeller, he shut down the engine and we sailed up to our anchorage--a little tricky--but doable. Crisis averted, but no crabs or lobsters in the pot--they probably crawled out somewhere along that 10 mile stretch where we were dragging the pot under our boat.
We got going around 7:30 AM and sailed west to Fort Jefferson and the Dry Tortugas National Park. The last couple of miles required a bit of motoring so we could get into the park before dark. We radioed ahead about anchoring near the park ranger station, but were advised that the harbor area was filling up with boats and we should anchor elsewhere in the park--we chose a spot near Bird Key. The green channel marker here says 3 BK--that's Bird Key not Burger King. We could see Fort Jefferson off in the distance.
The next morning (Finley's Birthday!) we awoke with a seaplane zipping by our boat. The seaplanes bring a handful of tourists for day trips. The little planes are mighty loud when they go roaring past.
Across from Fort Jefferson is the lighthouse on Loggerhead Key. That area is maintained by volunteers who stay in the lightkeepers house--just as the volunteers at Cape Lookout do.
The little harbor near the park ranger dock that had been full (it had 3 sailboats and a 60 ft. motor yacht) got a little less congested as the 3 sailboats left. We moved Caribbean Soul over to join the motor yacht. When we dinghied ashore to register with the Park Ranger, he seemed to have enough time to chat with us about lots of things. The fort is interesting--sort of the same vintage as Fort Macon, but much larger. The government apparently thought the fort could protect commerce into and out of the Gulf of Mexico from the island here between Cuba and Florida. The cannons could--at best-- hit something 2 or 3 miles away, so one wonders exactly what it could do to protect anything. Funding became an issue and it was never finished. It has served as a prison during the Civil War. Dr. Mudd was a famous prisoner who was in on the plot to assassinate Pres.Lincoln and did, in fact, set John Wilkes Booth's broken leg.
More interesting for me were the ranger's comments about the Cuban rafts. He said that they get about 100 total Cuban refugees a year. He asked us to call the Coast Guard if we spotted a raft. He said that they bring the refugees ashore, house, clean, feed, and provide medical attention to them before they are taken to the mainland. In most cases, he reported, there is also a body onboard. Our park ranger guy was young and I could tell that he had been through this process more than once. He mentioned the tremendous paperwork involved but it seemed mostly to be a huge emotional burden. On a brighter note, he said that once everyone is fed and cared for some serious partying always happens.
So, it's nice to be here in this safe anchorage and we didn't have to risk our lives fleeing from a dictator to get here. Ahh, another lovely sunset through the dodger.
Here's the beautiful coral sand beach at the fort. Lots of good snorkeling.
This is the front of Fort Jefferson. The sallie port (front door) is off to the right.
We're experimenting with a new water proof camera so you can see over and under.
Paradise felt good on this 80-some degree day. Not bad weather for January 8!
Another view of the fort from the water.
Sunset with a sport fishing boat anchored nearby.
In the morning, we watched this scene unfold--it's classic--the new boat to the anchorage puts out it's anchor too close to another boat and everyone gathers on deck to "discuss" the matter.
Sometimes everything gets too crowded in the anchorage!
Here's Penny on top of the fort.
This is the old limestone mortar made with coral. I thought it looked like bones, but on closer inspection I could see the coral--even a couple of pieces of brain coral.
Here's the whole harbor scene: along the docks are the passenger ferry, the Coast Guard motor launch, and a couple park service boats. Caribbean Soul is anchored out in the harbor.
This is Long Key. At the very end of this key--where you see some vegetation--is a nesting area for Magnificent Frigate birds. A hundred nests and hundreds of magnificent birds!
Yankee Freedom ferry boat at the dock and Caribbean Soul out on the hook.
John on the fort.
The fort and our Caribbean Soul.
Top of the fort.
More from the top.
Parade ground down below where we worked on our spinnaker the next day. It was the perfect place there on the grass protected from the wind with lots of space. We were successful in getting that big sail unscrambled and neatly repacked for our next downwind sail. We did, however, cause a bit of a stir--several tourists wondered what that big colorful bunch of silky fabric was and the park ranger came to see what we were doing. Everyone seemed satisfied that we were just working on our sail--but what did they think--we were setting up a circus tent or inflating a hot-air balloon in the fort?
Cacti thriving near the armory.
Old officers' quarters and current rangers' residences.
Just what every non-functioning fort needs--a moat!
Beautiful brick arches in the unfinished second floor of the fort.
Unfinished chapel.
More arches and a raised floor in front of me. Would have been quite elegant if they'd finished it.
Looking out the unfinished windows.
Over the years, rain water has dripped through causing these limestone stalactites to form.
View through the windows.
View from the beach--even the dead branches are pretty.
These are the foundation remains of an old coal dock. At one time the fort was very useful to commercial ships that needed to refuel here. The dock supports now provide safe hiding places for lots of nurse sharks, groupers and other large fish. You can see Caribbean Soul out there and the magnificent frigate bird rookery beyond.
Our last night was a bit stormy. These are the actual colors--no messing round with camera settings or photo editing--honest.
Here's John with the commercial fishermen anchored near us--Gregory and Raymond. They fished most of the night before and spent the day cleaning and packing their catch in ice--they carry about 4,000 pounds of ice! Ray lives in Key West. His brother Greg is from New Jersey, but came down to help with the fishing. Their wooden trawler was built in Marshallburg by one of the Davis boatbuilders--small world. The guys came over for drinks and snack. Nice guys--good fun.
In the morning, they headed out before light--about 5:30 AM. the fishing life is a lot of hard work and long hours. We, on the other hand, got under sail around 7:30 AM--early for us.
It was a bright and sunny day, but lousy sailing weather--wind and waves were right on the bow. We motored head into the 4 foot chop all day--hobby horsing the whole way. We were glad to anchor up on the northwest side of the Marquesas Keys and get some rest. Here's the moon over the island.
Here's the beautiful coral sand beach at the fort. Lots of good snorkeling.
This is the front of Fort Jefferson. The sallie port (front door) is off to the right.
We're experimenting with a new water proof camera so you can see over and under.
Paradise felt good on this 80-some degree day. Not bad weather for January 8!
Another view of the fort from the water.
Sunset with a sport fishing boat anchored nearby.
In the morning, we watched this scene unfold--it's classic--the new boat to the anchorage puts out it's anchor too close to another boat and everyone gathers on deck to "discuss" the matter.
Sometimes everything gets too crowded in the anchorage!
Here's Penny on top of the fort.
This is the old limestone mortar made with coral. I thought it looked like bones, but on closer inspection I could see the coral--even a couple of pieces of brain coral.
Here's the whole harbor scene: along the docks are the passenger ferry, the Coast Guard motor launch, and a couple park service boats. Caribbean Soul is anchored out in the harbor.
This is Long Key. At the very end of this key--where you see some vegetation--is a nesting area for Magnificent Frigate birds. A hundred nests and hundreds of magnificent birds!
Yankee Freedom ferry boat at the dock and Caribbean Soul out on the hook.
John on the fort.
The fort and our Caribbean Soul.
Top of the fort.
More from the top.
Parade ground down below where we worked on our spinnaker the next day. It was the perfect place there on the grass protected from the wind with lots of space. We were successful in getting that big sail unscrambled and neatly repacked for our next downwind sail. We did, however, cause a bit of a stir--several tourists wondered what that big colorful bunch of silky fabric was and the park ranger came to see what we were doing. Everyone seemed satisfied that we were just working on our sail--but what did they think--we were setting up a circus tent or inflating a hot-air balloon in the fort?
Cacti thriving near the armory.
Old officers' quarters and current rangers' residences.
Just what every non-functioning fort needs--a moat!
Beautiful brick arches in the unfinished second floor of the fort.
Unfinished chapel.
More arches and a raised floor in front of me. Would have been quite elegant if they'd finished it.
Looking out the unfinished windows.
Over the years, rain water has dripped through causing these limestone stalactites to form.
View through the windows.
View from the beach--even the dead branches are pretty.
These are the foundation remains of an old coal dock. At one time the fort was very useful to commercial ships that needed to refuel here. The dock supports now provide safe hiding places for lots of nurse sharks, groupers and other large fish. You can see Caribbean Soul out there and the magnificent frigate bird rookery beyond.
Our last night was a bit stormy. These are the actual colors--no messing round with camera settings or photo editing--honest.
Here's John with the commercial fishermen anchored near us--Gregory and Raymond. They fished most of the night before and spent the day cleaning and packing their catch in ice--they carry about 4,000 pounds of ice! Ray lives in Key West. His brother Greg is from New Jersey, but came down to help with the fishing. Their wooden trawler was built in Marshallburg by one of the Davis boatbuilders--small world. The guys came over for drinks and snack. Nice guys--good fun.
In the morning, they headed out before light--about 5:30 AM. the fishing life is a lot of hard work and long hours. We, on the other hand, got under sail around 7:30 AM--early for us.
It was a bright and sunny day, but lousy sailing weather--wind and waves were right on the bow. We motored head into the 4 foot chop all day--hobby horsing the whole way. We were glad to anchor up on the northwest side of the Marquesas Keys and get some rest. Here's the moon over the island.
The next day brought a bit of better sailing and we arrived back in Key West for--you guessed it--cocktails in the cockpit! That was short-lived however as a storm was brewing. We pulled up our anchor and motored off to the city moorings for a safer/more secure night. The sailing life isn't as difficult as the commercial fishing life--but it does take more energy than watchin' TV and mowin' the lawn--just saying--not complaining--we love it!
Great pics!
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